The Aldo Conterno Portfolio: A Perfect Blend of Tradition and Innovation
The Aldo Conterno winery itself is a marvel to see. What was once a small farmhouse called ‘il Favot’ has evolved over the decades into a beautiful, almost castle-like abode, presenting an imposing white facade across the Bussia hillside. Inside, the property is steeped in history. The moment you step in, you are greeted by walls lined with historic maps, documents, old photographs of Aldo during the war, and vintage bottles used as decor. If you pay close attention, you can actually see how the flooring changes from room to room, charting how the home slowly expanded over the years.
The ground floor and upper levels contain a modest tasting room, simply a large dining room with a few tables and furniture along the walls. Because the winery is not open to the public, a modern welcome center is not necessary.
Below ground, the descent into the historic winery begins. You are first met by a collection of historic wooden screw presses, many dating back to the last century. Moving further down, the temperature changes drastically; the entire cellar is naturally cooled by an underground aquifer that flows through the rooms, keeping the air circulating, cool, and at perfect humidity. As you wind through the subterranean maze, you pass historic rooms filled with ancient, massive five-liter bottles highlighting the old Piedmontese practice of only selling wine in bulk. Finally, after passing barrel rooms of various sizes tailored to different cuvées, you end in the GranBussia aging room, a vital piece of the facility where the estate's crown jewel must age for at least six years in bottle before release.
In the Cellar: Shaving the Casks
The winemaking at Aldo Conterno seamlessly blends tradition with modernity. All estate grapes are grown organically and harvested manually, but once they arrive at the facility, they are destined for different rooms, fermentations, and aging vessels.
The "non-Barolo" wines—the Chardonnay, Barbera, Langhe Nebbiolo, and Quartetto—all see aging in small French oak barrels of varying ages and new oak percentages depending on the specific cuvée.
By contrast, all Barolo-designated wines are aged exclusively in traditional, large Slavonian oak botti. However, the family has pioneered a unique protocol here. First, maceration times for the Barolos are kept to about 30 to 45 days, significantly shorter than the ultra-traditional style that can exceed three months. Second, the estate utilizes a barrel-shaving process, cycling a few casks through this maintenance each year so that every large botte is effectively "renewed" every eight or so years. This practice keeps the barrels remarkably healthy and clean, while imparting a subtle oak flavor into some of the wines. While the family does not disclose exactly when specific barrels are shaved or which cuvées go into them, this flexibility allows them to complement specific wines when needed. It is for this exact reason that I encourage tasting these wines each year to fully experience the unique interplay between the vintage and the cellar's craft.
Note: All wines within this portfolio are sourced from the iconic Bussia Cru in Monforte d’Alba.
‘Bussiador’
Langhe Chardonnay DOC
The Wine: A serious, age-worthy, full-throttle Piedmontese white sourced from premium plots in Bussia. This expression was directly inspired by Aldo’s time spent in Napa Valley and his deep love for Burgundy.
Winemaking: 100% Chardonnay. Fermented and aged in 100% new French oak barriques for around 12 months. It undergoes full malolactic fermentation to lean into a rich, structured international style while maintaining a serious core of natural acidity.
Tasting Note: Intensely aromatic with layers of ripe golden apple, toasted hazelnut, and vanilla bean. The rich, creamy texture is brilliantly offset by a distinct, driving mineral backbone.
MSRP: ~$80.00
‘Conca Tre Pile’
Barbera d’Alba DOC
The Wine: Sourced exclusively from the steep Conca Tre Pile hillside within the Bussia Cru, from old vines averaging up to 45 years of age.
Winemaking: 100% Barbera. Fermented in stainless steel with periodic pump-overs, then transferred to 100% French oak barriques for roughly 12 months to soften Barbera's naturally sharp, high acidity.
Tasting Note: Deep ruby-purple in the glass. Explosive aromas of dark blackberry, plum, sweet baking spices, and a touch of cocoa. The palate is lush, plump, and vibrant, framed by velvety tannins and a bright, juicy finish.
MSRP: ~$45.00
‘Il Favot’
Langhe Nebbiolo DOC
The Wine: Sourced from estate vineyards in Bussia, utilizing fruit from vines designated as too young for the standard Barolo pressing (including young vines from the single-vineyard crus). It is designed to showcase a more immediate, accessible side of Nebbiolo.
Winemaking: 100% Nebbiolo. Skin maceration is kept intentionally short (around 6 to 8 days) to pull vibrant fruit color while limiting aggressive structural tannins. Aged in 100% French oak barriques for approximately 12 months.
Tasting Note: Brimming with bright raspberry, fresh rose petals, and subtle sweet spice. Incredibly elegant on the palate, featuring supple, well-integrated tannins and an approachable, fruit-forward profile.
MSRP: ~$55.00
‘Quartetto’
Langhe Rosso DOC
The Wine: A unique estate blend showcasing how international varieties express themselves on Monforte soils alongside native Piedmontese grapes. Inspired by Aldo’s time in the United States, these vines are planted on the cooler, north-facing slopes of the property.
Winemaking: A blend of Nebbiolo, Pinot Noir, Syrah, and Merlot. The varieties are vinified entirely separately, blended, and then aged together in French oak barriques for roughly 12 months.
Tasting Note: Ripe red cherries and plums meet complex notes of cassis, tobacco leaf, and cedarwood. Structured yet plush, it offers an incredibly smooth, balanced palate with a long, savory finish.
MSRP: ~$45.00
Barolo Bussia DOCG
The Wine: The estate’s benchmark Barolo, representing a classic assemblage of the older vines across their Bussia vineyard holdings, excluding the specific single-vineyard parcels.
Winemaking: 100% Nebbiolo. Fermented in stainless steel with a 20-to-30 day maceration, followed by aging in large, traditional Slavonian oak casks (botti) for roughly 26 to 28 months.
Tasting Note: Classic Nebbiolo transparency. High-toned aromas of dried cherries, orange peel, leather, and tar. The palate is strictly structured with firm, chalky tannins, bright acidity, and a savory, earthy finish.
MSRP: ~$120.00
Barolo Colonnello DOCG
The Wine: From a historic 1-hectare parcel in Bussia where the vines are over 40 years old. Uniquely, the soil profile here features a significantly higher percentage of sand compared to the rest of the estate.
Winemaking: 100% Nebbiolo. Vinified traditionally with up to 30 days of skin maceration, then aged for around 28 to 30 months in large Slavonian oak botti.
Tasting Note: The most elegant, aromatic, and approachable of the single crus. High-toned aromas of fresh red rose, white pepper, and wild strawberries. Silky, fine-grained tannins meet a highly elegant, lifted finish.
MSRP: ~$250.00
Barolo Cicala DOCG
The Wine: Sourced from the specific 4-to-5 hectare Cicala single vineyard within Bussia, where the vines average 40 to 45 years old. The soil here is dominated by heavy clay and limestone, notably rich in iron.
Winemaking: 100% Nebbiolo. Traditional long skin contact for up to 30 days in stainless steel, followed by roughly 28 to 30 months of aging in large Slavonian oak casks.
Tasting Note: Muscular, dark, and intensely structured. Notes of black licorice, balsamic herbs, tar, and an iron-like minerality dominate the profile. The tannins are dense and tightly wound, built for decades of aging.
MSRP: ~$250.00
Barolo Romirasco DOCG
The Wine: The highest altitude plot of the three single crus, featuring old vines (averaging 50 to 55 years old) grown on complex limestone and clay soils. This vineyard is widely considered the structural backbone of the estate.
Winemaking: 100% Nebbiolo. Traditional long maceration followed by 30 months of aging in large, neutral Slavonian oak casks.
Tasting Note: Grand and monumental. It perfectly bridges the elegance of Colonnello with the sheer muscle of Cicala. Layers of dark cherry, crushed rocks, truffle, tobacco, and dried roses unfold over monumental, seamless structural tannins.
MSRP: ~$400.00
Barolo GranBussia Riserva DOCG
The Wine: The crown jewel of the estate, produced only in top vintages. It is a strict selection of the oldest vines on the property, historically a blend of roughly 70% Romirasco, 15% Cicala, and 15% Colonnello.
Winemaking: 100% Nebbiolo. Fermented in traditional large wooden vats with extended maceration, then aged for at least 32 to 36 months in Slavonian oak casks, followed by years of bottle aging. It is held at the estate and not released until roughly 8 to 9 years after the vintage.
Tasting Note: A masterclass in complexity. Hypnotic aromas of leather, dried porcini mushrooms, sweet pipe tobacco, camphor, and dark spice. The palate is incredibly deep and endless, possessing perfect structural harmony and a finish that lasts minutes.
MSRP: ~$1,000.00+