Graci Winery - Mt. Enta, Sicily, Italy
The first time I visited Alberto Graci’s winery was in 2023 on an incentive trip. I had always wanted to explore the mountain of Etna after learning about this magical region. The wines are, of course, amazing, but more than just that, they are expressive of their home—the super-active volcano that is Mount Etna. Alberto and his right-hand man Riccardo welcomed us to their ancient palmento, a historic 150-year-old winery made from lava rocks that Alberto purchased in the early 2000s. Walking through the giant doors, you are greeted by large oak barrels about two stories high as well as a historic screw press at the end of the hallway. Neither the barrels nor the screw press are currently used, but they have been well-preserved as an ode to the long history of manual labor and slow winemaking. Down the stairs from this museum of barrels is the functioning winery, with modern equipment where Alberto continues this lineage of slow, historic, and heroic winemaking.
The History of Winemaking on Mount Etna
Winemaking on Mount Etna can be traced back to ancient times, with evidence that viticulture was established by the Greeks when they colonized Sicily between 1800 and 500 BC. Winemaking was alive and well on the mountain for centuries, and in the 19th century, the area surrounding Catania became the most productive wine province in Sicily with over 90,000 hectares of vineyards.
The early 20th century, however, was marked by disaster and the near-disappearance of viticulture altogether, thanks to phylloxera compounded by frequent eruptions. Many vineyards were abandoned or converted to other crops so the farmers could survive. Once the vineyards did recover, the new focus was on bulk wine production rather than the terroir-driven wines of today.
In 1968, the Etna DOC was established—the first DOC on the island and one of Italy’s oldest. This is thanks in no small part to Barone di Villagrande, the oldest continuous winery on the mountain, founded in 1727 and credited with helping to establish the DOC. There are a number of other producers who helped keep the tradition of quality alive, but it wasn’t until the 1980s, 90s, and early 2000s that a true renaissance on Mount Etna began.
Benanti began his project on the mountain in the late '80s, convinced that Mount Etna could make some of the best wines in Italy and becoming the first producer to focus on single-vineyard expressions. Marco de Grazia of Tenuta delle Terre Nere is one of the first to use the term contrade on his labels, highlighting the importance of microclimates, soils, and varying aspects on the mountain. He famously called Etna "the Burgundy of the Mediterranean." Andrea Franchetti of Passopisciaro followed shortly after, along with Frank Cornelissen, another influential figure in the early 2000s. As a natural winemaker, Cornelissen also focused on single-contrade wines while promoting a low-intervention philosophy.
This long history and modern renaissance is what inspired Alberto Graci to move back to Sicily and start his winery in 2004.
The Founding of Graci Winery
Alberto Graci’s story is a modern "return to your roots" saga, heavily inspired by his own family heritage as well as the changes that were happening in viticulture on Mount Etna.
Alberto’s grandfather was a winemaker with vineyards in central Sicily, an area known mostly for bulk production. Alberto, however, took a different path, studying economics in Rome and then becoming a successful investment banker in Milan. The passing of his grandfather marked a turning point in his life. He inherited his grandfather's vineyards and needed to decide what to do with them. He decided to return to his Sicilian roots, but instead of continuing his grandfather's tradition in central Sicily, he made the bold decision to sell the vineyards and embark on his own on Mount Etna—a region he felt was full of potential and excitement.
In 2004, Alberto Graci purchased an ancient palmento in Passopisciaro on the northern slope of Mount Etna. From the very beginning, he has been dedicated to producing wines that express Mount Etna’s terroir. This is achieved by working exclusively with native varieties—primarily Nerello Mascalese and Carricante, and Nerello Cappuccio and Catarratto to a lesser extent.
Now, over 20 years into his own winemaking history, Alberto’s focus has sharpened to highlight some of the most esteemed contrade in his region. He owns vineyards in contrada Arcurìa directly across the street from his winery, contrada Feudo di Mezzo where his winery sits, as well as contrade Muganazzi and Santo Spirito just up the hill from the winery, and finally contrada Barbabecchi with 100+ year old vines at an elevation of over 1000 meters.
Viticulture and Winemaking
All farming at the Graci winery is done by hand following organic principles and are certified as such. They believe this is the only way to truly let the land speak, and as Alberto says, “The land decides, not us.” There is no use of herbicides, fungicides, or other harmful chemicals, as a healthy, living soil is essential for producing high-quality and expressive grapes.
The winemaking follows a minimal intervention protocol with as little interference in the natural winemaking process as possible. All fermentations happen spontaneously, without the addition of commercial yeasts, in large wooden vats or concrete tanks without any temperature control. For reds, only gentle extraction methods are used; grapes are allowed to crush under their own weight without using aggressive pumps, and time on the skins is limited to ensure fine tannins and a focus on elegance. There is no use of small new oak; instead, Graci uses only large, used barrels called 'tini.' These allow for micro-oxygenation, which softens the wine without imparting overt oaky notes. Concrete is often used for fermentation and aging of the white wines, enhancing their freshness.
The result of this meticulous care is wines of elegance and focus rather than power. Mineral and earthy characteristics predominate in his whites and reds, which are often referred to as "Burgundian." It is with this lens that Graci then showcases the differences in each of his single vineyards.
Indigenous Varieties of Mount Etna
Nerello Mascalese
The top red grape of Mount Etna and the primary component of Etna Rosso DOC, it is often linked to Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo due to its elegant aromatics and age-worthy profile. Wines from Nerello are typically a pale ruby that can be very light in color and can even have a hint of garnet in their youth. The wines are known for their complex and ethereal aromas often highlighted by strawberries, red cherries, raspberries, florals, and dried rose petals, as well as distinct herbal and savory characteristics. In the best versions, you can find a distinct smoky, earthy, or mineral-driven characteristic indicative of the volcanic terroir. Nerello is a late-ripening grape, meaning that it can retain its acidity late into the season even in the warm Sicilian sun. It has firm, fine-grained tannins that help with the aging process but can be quite pronounced in youth.
Carricante
The signature white grape of Mount Etna and the primary component of Etna Bianco DOC. The wines are often a pale straw-yellow with hints of green. The profile is defined by its sharp acidity and primary citrus fruits of lemon and grapefruit, as well as green apple, peach, and a distinct herbal component. On Mount Etna, they showcase a distinct mineral quality expressing itself as flinty, smoky, or saline. They can develop rich notes of honey, beeswax, and petrol as they age—similar to Rieslings. Carricante is also a late-ripening variety, leading to its distinct acidity while also allowing for full ripening, giving the resulting wines a fuller-than-expected body and savory texture.
Etna’s Terroir
Mount Etna is often referred to as an "island on an island" as its climate is so different from the rest of Sicily. The vineyards are planted between 600 and 1000 meters, providing a significant cooling influence. The mountain is planted in a semi-circle, starting on the north side and wrapping around to the east, ending on the south and southwest-facing slopes. The west side is not suitable for planting, as that is where the majority of the volcanic action is still happening. The soil around the mountain is, of course, of volcanic origin. However, there are significant differences from vineyard to vineyard depending on when the eruptions occurred and how the soil broke down. Some vineyards have large black lava stones full of holes and skeletons that create extremely well-drained soils, causing the vines to dive deep into the ground and produce wines with incredible finesse. Others are more of a volcanic ash and become a heavier clay, producing richer, more robust wines.
The southwestern slope is the least developed of Mount Etna but is an up-and-coming region. This is where Gaja’s new project IDDA comes from, with Alberto Graci acting as a consultant. This slope is the furthest from the sea, making it the driest and hottest with a significant diurnal shift. The soil here is a mix of lava flows and is still being explored. The wines from this region can be powerful and rustic due to the intense sunlight.
The southern slope is warm and sunny, catching most of the daytime sunshine. This slope is less famous for its wines as it tends to produce more full-bodied and riper wines that do not showcase the terroir as well.
The eastern slope is the most historic side of Mount Etna and is home to the town of Milo, the only region permitted to make Etna Bianco Superiore DOC. This is the wettest slope due to its direct exposure to the sea; however, there is plenty of wind and morning sunshine to keep the climate balanced. The soils here are finer-grained and hold more water, and are ideal for growing Carricante.
The northern slope, where Graci is located, is arguably the most famous slope for high-quality production. This is the coolest and driest slope, protected from the winds by the surrounding mountain ranges and tucked away from the most intense sunlight. This leads to a very slow ripening, ideal for high-quality, elegant wines. The soil here is typically volcanic sands and pumice with high concentrations of minerals. The texture varies, but many of the contrade on this slope are said to have a distinct minerality.
Graci’s Single Vineyards
Contrade—called crus in France, or MGA in Barolo & Barbaresco—are the true pinnacle of Mount Etna, showcasing its diversity of soils, aspects, microclimates, and resulting wines.
Contrada Arcurìa
The Arcurìa vineyard sits at an altitude of 600 to 700 meters. The soil is of volcanic origin, brown in color, and rich in volcanic skeletons. The soil is also very rich in iron and high in nitrogen, which provides a very distinct mineral character to the wines. This vineyard is planted with both Nerello Mascalese and Carricante, mostly trained as bush vines (alberello). The Etna Rosso Arcurìa from this vineyard is known for its elegance and freshness. It showcases notes of small red fruits, balsamic herbs, and even citrus. The wine is full-bodied with high acidity to balance it out, with a long mineral finish.
Contrada Muganazzi
Muganazzi sits at a very high elevation of 900 meters and is a significant vineyard for Graci’s white wine production. The high altitude makes for an even cooler microclimate, helping preserve the white grapes' freshness and acidity. The soil is very stony and rocky with some volcanic sands. It is very well-drained, forcing the vines to dig deep and extract even more mineral characteristics. The stony soils mean that yields are naturally low, and the vines are trained and worked by hand in the traditional alberello system. The Etna Bianco Muganazzi has an intense mineral profile, expressing racy acidity and a strong saline character. Lemon zest, green apples, white flowers, and a steely minerality persist, truly expressing its high-altitude, rocky terroir.
Contrada Feudo di Mezzo
This vineyard sits at 750 to 800 meters. The soil here is of a similar origin to that of Arcurìa, but with a deeper, heavier structure, leading to wines with more depth and richness. The Etna Rosso Feudo di Mezzo is arguably Graci’s boldest wine, known for its austere, rustic charm with autumnal tones balanced by floral notes, rich red fruits, and spices. The wine is structured and can age for many years; it is powerful but has a mineral, saline finish.
Contrada Barbabecchi
Barbabecchi is a highly unique and prestigious vineyard and sits at the highest elevation of all of Graci’s vineyards—1000 meters. The soil here is a dark black volcanic sand, producing distinct austere minerality, which, combined with the cool air and the extremely slow ripening, produces wines with incredible finesse. The vineyard is planted to 100% Nerello Mascalese, many of which are over 100 years old and are on their own roots, having survived phylloxera. The Barbabecchi ‘Quota 1000’ wine is one of great depth, finesse, and rustic elements. It has a lively freshness, firm tannins, and a long mineral finish. You will find red cherry, plum, wild herbs, licorice, pepper, balsamic, and stony mineral notes throughout. This is a truly profound wine made for longevity.
Along with single vineyard offerings, Graci makes fabulous Etna Rosso DOC, Etna Bianco DOC, and Etna Rosato DOC from blends of his single vineyards.
