Bruna Grimaldi: Innovating Upon Tradition
Bruna Grimaldi: Innovating Upon Tradition
I have had the pleasure of visiting the Bruna Grimaldi winery a few times on my travels, and it is always one of the stops I most look forward to. It's easy to be impressed by a beautiful modern winery, but it's just as easy to grow tired of visiting one after another—at the end of the day, they all have fermenters, barrels, and aging rooms, just with different layouts. However, the feeling of visiting the Bruna Grimaldi winery is something completely different; it is the feeling of home. This is probably because it is the historical family home, where family members still live today.
The winery is an old farmhouse, one of the four oldest buildings in the town, which has expanded around them over the years. You enter through a small courtyard, and the first room you walk into is the dining room. Although they have now built a new tasting room, I have yet to visit it. The dining room is where they traditionally hold tastings, lunches, and meetings. This is where they welcomed me when I brought clients and where they welcomed me when I visited with my family. This place truly is a home, and they welcome everyone like family.
The more you learn about the family, the more sense this makes. This is a multigenerational project, steeped in history, with a common goal: to express their vineyards in the most authentic way possible. The Grimaldis don't just make great wine; they are great people who are lucky to hold a shared passion for their family vineyards and winery. This is a connection that is becoming less common, as evidenced by the many producers across Barolo with the same last names on their bottles but coming from fractured families.
A Legacy Rooted in Grinzane Cavour
The story of Bruna Grimaldi is one of multi-generational dedication to the land. It begins with Giacomo, Bruna's grandfather, who managed a diverse farm of produce, animals, and wine in the early 1900s in Grinzane Cavour. In those days, winemaking was not profitable, so most people could not dedicate themselves fully to the vine.
Grinzane Cavour is steeped in history and was home to Italy's first Prime Minister, Camillo Benso. It's a foundation stone of modern Barolo. In the mid-19th century, the Count of Cavour hired French enologist Louis Oudart to help modernize winemaking in the region. Oudart introduced techniques to ferment Nebbiolo into a stable, dry wine, a radical departure from the sweet, sparkling style that had been traditional. This pivotal moment set the stage for the Barolo we know today.
In the post-war era, as wine became more profitable, the family transitioned from general farming to dedicated winemaking under Giovanni, Giacomo's son. Giovanni, who is now 92 years old and still sharp as ever, married Clara, who brought vineyards from the prestigious Badarina vineyard in Serralunga d'Alba into the family holdings. They had three daughters, and with no sons, the village speculated that the family's winemaking tradition might not continue.
However, the middle child, Bruna, defied expectations. She was one of only three women in her winemaking class in Alba and, together with her husband Franco Fiorino, officially took over the family business in 1987. The Bruna Grimaldi label was born in 1999, and their methodical, slow expansion led to an increase in vineyard holdings and a deep commitment to sustainability, with the vineyards becoming certified organic in 2013.
The Thoughtful Evolution of a New Generation
The family's newest chapter is now being written by Bruna and Franco's children, Simone and Martina. Their approach is not one of revolution, but of careful and intentional progression. They are driven by a shared philosophy to create "pure expressions of the territory, grapes, and vintage" by making nuanced, soulful wines.
Martina and Simone are very thoughtful in their work and seek to slowly evolve their style to continue and expand upon that of their parents. They have made some changes in the winery, including a continued move toward using more large barrels. While Bruna never bought barriques despite the trends of the nineties, she did use more mid-sized tonneaux in her day. Every year, they are buying one to two new large botti to integrate into their program, as they believe these larger formats better express the purity of the fruit and terroir. Simone has also brought a bit more precision into the winemaking facility, focusing on cleanliness and consistency, as showcased by their new aging room which maintains a consistent temperature and humidity—something that was not as common for generations past. They also continue to innovate where possible, as showcased by the new destemmer they purchased this year, which is designed specifically for Nebbiolo grapes. These grapes are notoriously difficult to destem, and this addition leads to more intact grapes and healthier fruit.
A Deep Connection to Terroir
The Bruna Grimaldi portfolio is a direct reflection of the diverse terroirs they cultivate, especially within the single-vineyard MGA (Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive) system of Barolo. This official classification of specific vineyard areas allows them to showcase the unique personalities of their different sites.
Serralunga d’Alba
Badarina MGA
Located at a high elevation (1,500 feet), this vineyard faces southeast, receiving morning sun. The unique white Marl and limestone soil provides structure and a savory character that is difficult to find elsewhere. Wines from here are often harvested later, resulting in thicker skins and a magical balance of fresh acidity and concentrated aromas.
Badarina Vigna Regnola MGA
A special south-facing plot within Badarina with even more white limestone. The grapes here reach peak ripeness, producing wines of greater tension and complexity. In exceptional years, this plot is vinified separately, and after a few years of aging, the family decides to release it as a special bottling. This decision is made on what they genuinely love, not simply on commercial opportunity.
Roddi
Bricco Ambrogio MGA
Situated at a lower elevation with a steep southeast exposure, this vineyard has distinct blue-grey soils. It receives ample sunlight, leading to an earlier harvest. The resulting wines are known for their open, generous, and juicy fruit character, showcasing a more immediate and approachable side of Barolo.
The winemaking for both these single-vineyard expressions is identical, underscoring the family's belief that it is the vineyard—not the cellar—that truly defines the wine.
A 360-Degree View of Sustainability
While the winery is certified organic, Simone and Martina believe that a truly sustainable approach must be holistic. They call this "360 sustainability," encompassing:
The Land
Their first priority is working the land in a thoughtful way, with the long-term goal of ensuring it can provide the best fruit for many years to come. This includes prioritizing soil health and a deep understanding of their ecosystem. Four generations of working the same land give them a much longer view on sustainability.
The People
They believe that the people who work the land are the heart of the winery. They maintain a small, dedicated team and prioritize the well-being of seasonal workers, fostering a sense of community and care.
Commercial Viability
Ensuring the winery is commercially sustainable allows them to maintain full control over their process and avoid having to buy grapes or change their style.
For the family, this thoughtful approach is a better representation of their values than a simple label, reflecting a profound sense of responsibility passed down through generations. It is for this reason that they do not put "organic" on the label, even though they hold the certification.
Winemaking - A Low-Intervention Ethos
The overarching philosophy of low-intervention and a profound respect for the vineyards is evident in every bottle. As Simone notes, 70% of their time is spent in the vineyard, 25% is spent in the cellar during harvest, and only 5% for the rest of the year. This hands-off approach in the cellar allows the true character of the land to shine.
The wines are fermented with native yeasts in a mix of concrete and stainless steel, and there are no additives of any kind aside from a small amount of sulfur at bottling. There is a little new oak used on the Barbera which adds to the complexity of the wine and feeds their barrel program; the rest of the lineup favors large used barrels and a longer élevage, achieving stability over time.
The Bruna Grimaldi portfolio is a testament to their thoughtful approach to winemaking, featuring only single varietal wines made from the indigenous varieties of Piedmont: Arneis, Dolcetto, Barbera, & Nebbiolo.
Vintages: A Snapshot of Upcoming Years
In my discussions with Simone & Martina, we reviewed the upcoming vintages. Below is a summary of what to look forward to in the coming years!
2021: An iconic vintage, offering unbelievable complexity and a perfect balance between the tension of 2019 and the fruitiness of 2020. A perfect year for both drinking and collecting.
2022: Similar to 2020, producing juicy, fruity, and approachable wines that were just bottled in July.
2023: A very pretty and accessible vintage, with a less rich but more floral and delicate character.
2024: An "old-style" vintage, characterized by very delicate and traditional flavors.
2025: Despite challenges from heat and moths, the grapes are looking beautiful. Rain in the spring and cold nights in July have created ideal conditions, with harvest for sparkling wines already underway.
The lineup shared with us when I visited with my Fiance and her family.
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For more information please check out the following links - Massanois, Bruna Grimaldi Website, Barolo MGA Article
