I finally had the opportunity to visit a winery that I’ve been selling and drinking for quite some time, yet had always remained a bit of an enigma to me.

Giordano Lombardo is an organic and biodynamic estate based in Piedmont. We currently only import one of his wines, the Gavi di Gavi, which I’ve always loved. Their commitment to sustainable farming and a low-intervention production style has always called to me, but with a large portfolio to manage, it had stayed on the back burner as a place to truly dive into. I knew the basics: the white soils, the family history, and that the wine was delicious. But I wanted to see the property for myself.

A Shift in Landscape

The moment you arrive, you’re hit with the sense that you are deep within nature. Wildflowers are everywhere, a local cat is the first creature to greet you, and you are surrounded by trees. This was my first time in Gavi, and I wasn't sure what to expect. As I drove down from the historic hills of Barolo where every inch of land is covered in noble vineyards, the landscape began to fade into something much more rustic.

Tucked between the Apennine Mountains and the Ligurian Sea, the estate sits less than an hour from either. A perfect balance of crisp mountain air and a salty sea breeze hit me the second I stepped out of the car. I say this about a lot of places I visit, but I immediately thought:

“Damn, I could live here.”

The Philosophy of the Woods

Giordano and his wife, Stefania, met us at their property, which consists of two buildings overlooking a single vineyard framed by dense woods. They apologized that their English wasn't great and that their usual translators, their high-school and college-aged kids, were away. Luckily, between our collective "broken Italian" and one guest’s surprise proficiency (he waited until day four of the trip to reveal he spoke the language!), we got along just fine.

We began with a walk through the neighboring woods. Giordano made a point of noting his dislike for wineries that clear-cut every bit of surrounding nature just to focus on vines. Having spent years working at such a place, he felt those wines never truly expres their origin.

At Giordano Lombardo, the vineyards sit within a valley of trees that protect the vines from inclement weather while promoting massive biodiversity. As we walked, he pointed out spots he envisions converting into picnic areas and shared his knowledge of the local herbs. His entire philosophy is centered on immersing the guest in nature. We eventually wound through a meadow, complete with a few scattered animal bones to remind us what else lurks in these woods, though safely guarded by Giordano’s dog. I’m not sure of the breed, but at 1.5 feet tall, he looked like a Terrier-Chihuahua mix. I felt safe knowing I could at least outrun him.

White Soils and Light Touches

In the vineyards, Giordano explained their "less is more" approach. Even within their certified organic and biodynamic systems, they keep inputs to an absolute minimum. Tilling is rare, used only to sow new cover crops, while rows are managed with green manure, compost, and biodynamic preparations.
The soil here is a brilliant white calcareous clay known as Terre Bianche. It brings a signature elegance and minerality to the wine, but it also serves a functional purpose: reflecting light up into the canopy to help the grapes reach peak ripeness. The vines are kept short, which makes manual labor difficult, but protects the fruit from unpredictable cold fronts near harvest.

The Working Winery

When we reached the cellar, Giordano offered a modest apology: "I have a working winery, not a pretty winery." While small, it was pristine and built exactly for his needs. At the risk of sounding like a snob, at the end of the day, all wineries are just tanks, tubes, and barrels. You can class them up all you want, but it doesn't change the quality of the wine if the work wasn't done in the vineyard first.

His winemaking mirrors the farming, low intervention and precise. They use temperature control and brief skin contact to preserve freshness, followed by spontaneous fermentation, lees aging, and natural decanting.

Simple Cuisine

The tasting took place in the second building, The Osteria, which is an extension of their home. It features a beautiful screened-in patio and a pool overlooking the vines.

Giordano is actually the certified lifeguard for the property as well, and he told us he had to renew his certification just this year. He laughed as he described being by far the oldest guy at the training, and the only one wearing a Speedo, all the other kids at the course thought he was the instructor! While he’s still got the credentials, he admitted with a smile that it might finally be time for one of his boys to step up and take over the lifeguard duty next year.

Their chef prepared what they call "simple cuisine", fresh, seasonal, and hyper-local. We were treated to carne cruda, crostini with pesto, local burrata with tomatoes, and Torta de Riso (a savory Ligurian rice pie). The food was incredibly fresh and a perfect pair for the vibrant Gavi and Barbera.

The wines of Giordano Lombardo are electric and speak clearly of the wild, wooded place they come from. It’s a testament to stewards who are truly passionate about the land they inhabit.